Treaty Port Gulangyu
“For situation and natural attractions, Kulangsu (Gulangyu) is unsurpassed along the coast of China.” — Philip Wilson Pitcher, 1909
A tiny gem nestled in the embrace of big sister Xiamen (“Amoy” in the local Hokkien dialect) in China’s southern Fujian province, Gulangyu Island’s size– just 2km2 – belies its horde of glorious historic architectural treasures, dating from the days when Gulangyu was an International Settlement.
Gulangyu came about its 19th and early 20th century Western architecture just as Shanghai did, as a prize of the Opium Wars. Xiamen, of which Gulangyu was a part, was one of the five original treaty ports opened to trade when the Treaty of Nanjing ended the Opium Wars in 1842.
The poetically named “Drum Wave Island”, from the sound of the waves crashing on the rocks, was not, at first, considered an ideal spot to set up housekeeping because of its “dirt and filth”. By the 1860s, with disease and death running rampant in Xiamen, many of the missionaries and merchants moved to Gulangyu island. There, they built all the usual trappings of the foreigners in China: schools, churches, hospitals, consulates, clubs, a recreation ground, hotels, and of course, residences. That initial distaste for Gulangyu is hard to fathom today, wandering the tree-shaded, winding streets, with breathtaking sea vistas at every turn and a medley of architecture, particularly the unique “Amoy Deco Style” a synthesis of the Modernist style of the early 20th century and Art Deco.
From the top, clockwise: Trinity Church, 1934, Chuncao Villa, 1933, and the Mixed Court (late 1920s), modelled on the Shanghai International Settlement’s Mixed Court.
Gulangyu had submitted a “Scheme for the better management of the Municipal Affairs of the island of Kolongsu” to the authorities in Beijing in 1897, but it was not until the “Japan Scare” of 1900 that capital saw fit to acquiesce. Philip Pitcher, author of In and About Amoy (1909), presciently notes that there was a sense that “Japan had designs upon Amoy, and that, if a good opportunity offered … she would step in and assume control.” The burning of a Japanese Buddhist temple in Amoy was just such an opportunity, leading Japanese marines to land on both Gulangyu and Amoy. The Japanese were dispatched with the arrival of a British cruiser, and soon thereafter, Beijing came around to the idea than an International Settlement for Gulangyu would be beneficial.
Left: The “Kulangsu” police emblem, with 13 countries of the Municipal Council; right: the Municipal Police Force
The International Settlement was established in 1903 and governed by the 13 countries of the Gulangyu Municipal Council, and – as in Shanghai and Tianjin — policed by a Sikh police force drawn from Britain’s colonies in India.
Gulangyu’s high elevations, sweeping sea views, and the security of international policing also drew wealthy Chinese. Many native sons had made their fortunes in Southeast Asia — the Philippines, Malaya, Indonesia – and returned home to build magnificent mansions on Gulangyu.
Clockwise from top: Private villa owned by Filipino Chinese brothers; Tile inside Fanpo Mansion, home of another Filipino Chinese, Xu Jingquan; Fanpo Mansion exterior.
By 1938, Japan’s designs on Amoy (and China) had culminated in the Japanese occupation of Xiamen; Gulangyu remained an International Settlement until its occupation in 1942. Extraterritorial privileges officially ended in 1943 with treaties signed by Chiang kai-shek, but the Japanese occupation, which lasted until 1945, was really the death knell for the International Settlement. The Chinese Civil War that followed ended in October 1949, when the Communist forces won Gulangyu and Xiamen.
That should be the end of the Gulangyu International Settlement story, but – as with Shanghai, and so many other treaty ports — Gulangyu’s architecture lived on, with its own stories hidden beneath the eaves. Those stories were silent for decades, but in recent years, the authorities have become aware of what a treasure they have on their hands. In 2017, Gulangyu became a UNESCO world heritage site, and the old historic churches, schools, and consulates are slowly being turned into museums and galleries.
Clockwise from Left: Hong Kong Shanghai Bank Staff Residence; Lee Mansion; Mansion now occupied by original owner’s granddaughter.
We visited Xiamen and Gulangyu most recently in November 2021 – here’s our itinerary:
DAY 1 – Arrival & Downtown Xiamen
Arrive in Xiamen this morning and head to the hotel. As guests will be coming from different parts of China, we’ll ask people to arrange their own flights and take a taxi to the hotel. Xiamen Gaoqi International Airport is fairly central and usually takes 30-40 minutes to reach the hotel.
Left: Aaron Yang, local historian, will uncover the hidden treasures of downtown Xiamen. Middle: The Orion Theater (now Siming Theater). Right: Century-old shophouses in downtown Xiamen.
2.30pm We’ll kick off this afternoon with a walking tour around the center of historic downtown Xiamen with local historian and ultimate Xiamen insider, Aaron Yang. Zhongshan Road is the city’s premier walking tour today will take us to the shophouses, cinemas, and downtown Deco in the waterfront area of Xiamen. Much is being redeveloped, but the winding lanes and backstreets are full of architectural surprises and a glimpse of local life. Big development plans are afoot, and we’ll discuss preservation and heritage with Aaron. Our walk will conclude with a welcome dinner.
DAY 2 ~ Gulangyu
Full Day We’ll board the ferry today for the island of Gulangyu, with a rich history as China’s other International Settlement, and now a UNESCO Heritage Site. Foreigners in Xiamen began moving here in the 1860s, buildings churches, schools, hospitals, consulates, and clubs, and by the early 20th century, they were joined by wealthy Chinese from Southeast Asia, who built some of the most sumptuous mansions on the island. The pedestrian-only island, with its palm-fringed promenades, winding streets, charming villas and breathtaking sea views at every turn is always a highlight of any Xiamen visit. Lunch and dinner on Gulangyu
DAY 3 – Overseas Chinese Village + Baijia Cun
Photos: Overseas Chinese Village & Bai Jia Cun
Morning This morning, we’ll explore some of central Xiamen’s off-the-beaten track neighborhoods and hidden histories. The Overseas Chinese Village is an enclave of Art Deco villas with Chinese design details, built in the 1960s (yes, the 1960s!) for overseas Chinese from Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore. Today, many have been converted into cafes, boutiques and hotels, creating an atmosphere similar to Shanghai’s former French Concession. Baijia Cun, an adjacent neighborhood, also features some beautiful examples of Art Deco architecture, and its own fascinating history. Lunch follows the walking tour.
Sources:
In and About Amoy, Rev. Philip Wilson Pitcher, Shanghai & Foochow: Methodist Publishing House of China, 1909